There was a line out the door at Russ & Daughters this Saturday morning, which is generally a good sign for a restaurant, but not when you're in a rush to the airport. Fortunately for hungry travelers like me, Russ & Daughters has a charming bar with no reserved seating allowed (tightly enforced!) so I skipped the line and had my hot plate of latkas in minutes.
The bagel dough itself is flavorful with a suppleness and pleasant yeasty flavor that typifies the "Only in New York" quality you expect from a New York bagel. Caramelized onion and poppy seed dot the center. The bialy is served halved with your choice of double whipped cream cheese (read doubly delicious). I ordered the scallion cream cheese.
Stay for the Fish
Russ & Daughters is world famous for its fish. Smoked herring. Salmon pastrami. Smoked whitefish and caviar. My advice: don't make the mistake I did, order fish. Even as I type this on my bumpy flight back to California, I feel a haunting sense of FOMO.
I can say, however, that thanks to the quick service I made it to the airport with time to spare and I won't be starving on the flight.
By Charlie Kalish
Crackers are a simple and fail-proof vessel for serving cheese, and so are crispbreads. Crispbreads are common in Scandinavia and are essentially sourdough crackers, and I eat them with cheese and cultured butter on a regular basis.
I like crispbreads because of their crunch and the delectable flakes of salt that melt on the roof of your mouth. By adding seeds and spices and toppings, you can create unlimited combinations of flavors and textures (as well as pairings for cheese, wine, beer, you-name-it). Beyond being tasty and having excellent shelf life, they also have a pleasing visual aesthetic.
How to make your own
Getting Starter with a Starter
The recipe below is adapted from Tartine Bakery's recipe for "Wheat-Spelt Crispbreads with Sesame & Fennel Seeds" (p.212) in Tartine Book No 3. In order to make this crispbread, you will need a sourdough starter to create a leaven. Sourdough starter takes a week to develop, and requires minimal cost, time and effort, but it's easier to pilfer some starter from a friend if available. If starting from scratch, here is a starter/leaven recipe from the New York Times' instructions for Tartine's Country Bread (see Steps 1-3) and another from Serious Eats.
1. Mix the leaven and water in a medium bowl until leaven is blended into the water. Set aside.
2. To the second medium bowl, add the flours, wheat germ and sea salt and mix with your hands. Add the water-leaven mixture and mix to form a dough.
3. Cover the bowl with the kitchen towel and let ferment in the refrigerator overnight.
4. In the morning, portion the dough into 50 g pieces and work with your hands into balls (see right)
5. Coat a flat work surface with wheat or rye flour and add one dough ball. Press the ball flat with the palm of your hand and coat the top with more flour. Roll out with rolling pin until a thin sheet. Alternatively, roll out until flat enough to put through a pasta machine, which is not only quicker and easier but also ensures even thickness which will help ensure even baking. If uneven, thin parts may burn while thick parts remain chewy and un-fully baked.
6. Transfer the dough to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush top of the dough lightly with water and sprinkle with toppings. Set seeds and salt into the dough by pressing gently with your hand.
7. Bake dough at 425 deg F (220 deg C) until golden brown, 8-15 minutes depending on the strength of your oven. If the dough starts to darken (and it'll happen quickly), it's all over, so keep a close eye on it. As soon as the dough changes to golden brown, remove from the oven and place on a wire rack. Repeat with all of the remaining crispbreads.
8. Once you have baked all of the crispbreads, reduce the oven temperature to 200 deg F (95 deg C). Return the crispbreads to the oven all at once, placing them directly on the metal racks, and continue to bake for 10-15 more minutes with the oven door slightly ajar. This will further dehydrate the dough, giving it a nice crispy texture. The color should not change.
9. Transfer the finished crispbread to a cooling rack and enjoy!
That's it, you're done! Now spread some blue cheese (February is Blue Cheese month) on it and enjoy. Also delicious with butter and fresh cheeses, like farmer's cheese or goat cheese (fresh chevre).
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To learn more about Tartine Bakery, visit their website. You can also purchase their book, Tartine Book No 3, from virtually any major bookseller.
It was once said that cheese comes before dessert because it is the first dessert. Fromage blanc (when blended with sugar) makes a great cheese cake; a young triple cream pairs wonderfully with strawberries. I consider eating these cheeses equal to shotgunning a can of whipped cream, but with class. They’re great, everyone’s going to love them.
But in my opinion, the finest dessert cheese of all time is blue cheese. Pairing it with fruit, honey or late harvest wine provides a window to human happiness, as it might have existed thousands of year ago.
Many of my favorite blues come from Rogue Creamery. Founded by David Gremmels and Cary Bryant, the mission of the business is to help sustain the rural landscape and economy of Southern Oregon by making some of the world’s best cheese. That means you can fill your face with their cheese and still feel like you’re making a sacrifice for the common good. This is one of the few American companies that exports their cheese to France (Enough said?).
I sat down this week with Rogue Creamery’s talented cheese monger, Chelsea Faris, to learn more about Blue cheese, and in particular, Rogue Creamery's Caveman Blue.
MICHAEL: Why are people afraid of blue cheese?
CHELSEA: People tend to be scared of mold and potent flavors. People may have tried some blue cheeses that weren’t super quality and they thought that’s what all blue cheese taste like. I went to grade school in Ohio and then moved to Wyoming. We always stayed with the tried and true, cheddar. And being from Ohio, we would eat processed cheese. I didn’t taste a blue cheese until I was in my twenties.
MICHAEL: How is Rogue Creamery’s Caveman Blue distinct from the others?
CHELSEA: The texture is like peanut butter, super fudgy. We call it luscious [laughter] and it’s full of umami flavor without being too sharp or strong. It’s also Certified Organic. We called it “Caveman” after the mascot of Grant’s Pass, where the Rogue Creamery dairy is situated. We purchased the dairy a few years ago.
MICHAEL: What is your favorite way to enjoy Caveman raw?
CHELSEA: I really like Caveman on the raincoast crisps with a marmalade or pickled beets.
MICHAEL: So you like to go sweet?
CHELSEA: Yeah, it definitely can go that way. But I always enjoy savory pairings, too. You have to try it on a crisp romaine leave, with fresh or pickled beets, topped with orange zest.
MICHAEL: I will definitely try that. What is your favorite way to cook Caveman?
CHELSEA: This one time at David’s house (the co-founder), David threw an amazing dinner and topped it off with a Caveman soufflé! That is probably my favorite. Another one is Caveman s’amores (Below). It plays on the sweet and salty combo.
MICHAEL: What should people avoid doing with Caveman, or blue in general?
CHELSEA: You don’t want to cube or mash blue cheese. Serve it as a clean cut or crumble it into a bowl. You can also crumble it onto a cheese plate and round it out with crackers or nuts, so it doesn’t look like an accident. Maybe don’t make a milkshake?
MICHAEL: Really? I think a vanilla and blue milkshake sounds pretty good. What about ice cream?
CHELSEA: Salt and Straw, an ice cream parlor in Portland, makes a blue cheese ice cream with candied pear. I tasted it and thought, this is awesome. I’ll leave it to the chefs to figure out.
MICHAEL: What blue cheese would you recommend to an blue-phobic customer?
CHELSEA: We make 9 different blues, they’re all different flavors and textures, so there is probably something here that customer will like. If they gravitate toward milder flavors with sweet cream or fruit I would always recommend our signature classic Oregon Blue. However if you like mushroom, umami earthy flavors Caveman may be the right fit! For the adventurous try Smokey Blue, it’s unlike any smoked cheese you’ve ever tried and it’s candied bacon flavor is out of this world! Some like this and not other blue cheeses.
MICHAEL: What is the strongest blue cheese you recommend to a blue cheese lover?
CHELSEA: Age and distinction will attract blue fans. We have a mixed milk Blue called Echo Mountain that has 2 years of age on it, and of course you can’t leave out the famous Rogue River Blue! Aged 12 months before getting wrapped in syrah grape leaves that have been soaked in pear brandy. We actually have a blue called “Brutal Blue” that’s aged more than 2 years. It can be any of our core blues with the exception of Smokey. Just has to reach a certain flavor profile.
MICHAEL: Why is it a good idea to bring a blue cheese to the party?
CHELSEA: Blue cheese is a great way of rounding out someone’s cheese board. You can also get blue cheese from different types of milk. We have a lot of holiday parties around here and if I don’t bring some blue, people are disappointed. I’ll bring it as a stand-alone or incorporate it into a dish, which can make it a bit more approachable.
*Thanks to photographers Jon Jensen and H. Sterling Cross for the Rogue Creamery photos.
Melting has the magical effect of toning down the pungency of washed rind cheeses while ramping up the flavor, which explains why washed rinds make such an excellent (and unanimous) choice for gratins and savory quiches, and even mac n' cheese. While more expensive than a mass-produced cheddar, the end result is a richer, more decadent depth of flavor.
Granted not everybody appreciates a "smelly" cheese (or so they think), but if anything can convert a non-believer it is a tofu grilled cheese reuben.
Soft-washed rind cheese is the Everest of cheese styles. You can’t take it without wanting it, without being driven by a deep feeling of curiosity and adventure. Many people find their limits and will experience discomfort, but tasting these cheeses can be immensely rewarding, and for some, a religious experience.
The best guide to soft-washed rind cheese will always be your local cheesemonger. This week, I sat down with Driver’s Market’s Jonathan Alexander (Left), to get his take on pairing soft-washed rind cheese.
THE CHEESE BOARD
When I arrived, four raw, soft-washed rind cheeses were neatly arranged on a rustic, wood cheese board. The cheeses (from mildest to strongest, pictured below) were: Kinsman Ridge (Landaff Creamery, aged by Cellars of Jasper Hill - Back left), Rush Creek Reserve (Uplands Cheese Company, WI - Middle), Oma (Von Trapp Farmstead, aged by Cellars of Jasper Hill, VT - Far Right), and Ameribella (Jacobs & Brichford Farmstead, IN - Far Left).
Michael: A customer comes in and you say, “You have to try Kinsman Ridge.” Why?
JONATHAN: Kinsman has a mild, entry-level character blended with really complex, deep flavors. It can trick you into thinking you are eating a delicious, mild cheese, but what you are really doing is trying an homage to great, classic French cheeses.” This customer is someone who has been eating lots of sharp cheddar and havarti, and I think they are ready to take the next step in the cheese world. I like to start them off with gateway cheeses that give one a sense of place, of terroir, what great milk can produce.
Michael: Is Rush Creek Reserve the next step?
JONATHAN: I would recommend the Rush Creek to someone who is a little more adventurous or wants to draw attention to a cheese plate at a party. It allows people to interact with the cheese in a special way. It also presents a whole diversity of flavors and textures. You have the bark on the outside that is holding it together. You have a different flavor and texture closer to the rind and a gooey, unctuous paste you are scooping from the inside. You can buy this cheese whole and devour it from start to finish.
MICHAEL: This Oma appears to be much stronger. Should I brace myself?
JONATHAN: Oma is the best example of how the character of the washed rind cheese develops. When young, it has a flavor and texture of cultured butter and fresh cream - surprisingly mild given its strong aroma. But as it ages, Oma the rind becomes less soft and the flavors turn meaty and savory. It’s raw, so it has to be aged at least 60 days, but it is not uncommon to serve over 3 months old.
Michael: I noticed that you did not eat the Oma with bread. Why?
JONATHAN: With cheese, I typically don’t eat it with bread or crackers - like really good sashimi without the sushi rice. I am so used to eating things critically, I like to just get the purist sense of how it feels in my hand and the evolution of the product as I eat it.
MICHAEL: Where do you go from Oma?
JONATHAN: If you love Oma and you want to level-up, find some Grayson by Meadow Creek Dairy in Virginia.
MICHAEL: I love the texture of Ameribella. I’m guessing this is the strongest, since it is the last cheese.
JONATHAN: This is a great American representation of soft, washed rind cheese.
MICHAEL: Just in case I can’t take it, what is the best way to clean my palate?
JONATHAN: Anything bubbly will help dissolve the fats and clean the palate - I like sparkling water.
MICHAEL: What do you recommend pairing with a soft, washed-rind cheese?
JONATHAN: I would recommend a really crisp Chardonnay or a dry Riesling or something that has a heavy malty character, like a Belgian Triple, that is going to stand up to a funky cheese.
MICHAEL: Would you say that stinky cheese are the bully of the class or the one who just hasn’t learned to use deodorant yet?
JONATHAN: Definitely the latter. He is not forcing you to hang out with him, but he is there for you.
For more cheese videos and pics follow us on youtube and Instagram! (@thecheesetwins). If you have any questions, contact us at email@example.com. To learn more about Driver's Market, click here!
Stink, like spice, attracts some and deters others, but there is a middle ground, where a little knowledge may tip the scales. Check out our FAQ below!
What is a soft washed-rind cheese
A soft washed-rind cheese is “soft” thanks to its high moisture content. “Washed-rind” refers to practice of washing the rind as the cheese ages.
What is the wash solution made of?
The wash solution can be brine, beer, spirits, wine or grape must. Brines can be lightly salted or fully saturated; alcoholic solutions can be diluted or used straight.
How often is the cheese washed
The frequency of washing varies according to how quickly the rind dries out, which normally slows down as the cheese ages. The goal is to maintain a supple, thin rind that is slightly tacky and homogenous in color and texture.
What makes the rind so stinky?
Waves of yeast and bacteria colonize the rind and give the cheese its characteristic color and pungency.
Can I wash it after I buy it?
Yes, you can. But get ready for some extra funk. Finding the right amount of ventilation without drying out the cheese will be your biggest challenge. Better to buy it ripe and eat it immediately.
What should the rind look like when I buy it?
The texture of the rind ought to be dry, but can be slightly tacky. The French like to finish their soft washed-rind cheeses in cold storage; refrigeration has a drying effect, which, along with the cold, slows down the maturation of the cheese.
What should the paste look like?
The texture of the paste ought to be creamy, but it can range from tender and elastic to spreadable, resembling soft butter.
What are the most common defects?
Bitterness and spicy-ness are the most common defects. These are often accompanied by a strong odor of ammonia. Grainy rind is another one. If this is the case, tell your cheesemonger and exchange it for one slightly more fresh.
When is the best time of year to eat soft washed rind cheeses?
Unlike firm alpine cheeses (which are also washed), the high moisture content predisposes these cheeses to ripen quickly. The best way to slow them down is to keep them cool. That’s why they were originally made in the Fall and Winter, when cool ambient temperatures allow for slow, even ripening. But with the advent of refrigeration, these stinkers can be enjoyed anytime. In the summertime, they are my favorite for topping burgers or grilled cheese sandwiches. In the Winter time, I melt them over potatoes. or eat them fresh with a slice of apple.
What flavors are typical of a soft-washed rind cheese?
These cheeses can be rich, heavy, meaty, and brothy. They can easily be balanced by a rustic baguette, a slice of apple, or even a late harvest wine, in some cases.
Seasonality is everything in today's farm to table world, and winter is the season of washed rind cheeses.
Washed rind cheeses are similar to bloomy rind cheeses such as brie or camembert, except that they are washed during the aging process, often with a salt brine or other solution such as beer, wine or spirits. As a result, the rind acquires a characteristic orangish-tawny color and funk flavors, which can range from savory and mild to, well, downright funky. Meunster and Tallegio are classic washed rind cheeses.
spotlight: Upland cheese co's rush Creek
One could argue that the King of mid-western American artisan washed rind cheeses is Uplands Cheese Company's Rush Creek, a pungent cow's milk cheese from Wisconsin that is modeled on the French Vacherin Mont d'Or.
Rush Creek is a seasonal cheese made exclusively from autumn milk, when the cows are switching from a diet of fresh sumer grasses to hay. This change in diet increases the fat content of the milk, imparting in the final cheese a decadent, unmatched richness. Repeated washing of the rind enhances the woody flavors from the spruce bark and gives the rind a distinctive meatyness.
How to eat it
Not everybody can handle the funk of a washed rind cheese, but have no fear, you can still enjoy them! Melting washed rind cheeses and incorporating them into food filters out the funk, transmitting only the prized flavors.
This Christmas, my wife caramelized onions (a perfect pairing with the woody, roasted meaty flavors of a washed rind cheese) and blended them with Rush Creek and roast potatoes. My mother, who can't stand stinky cheeses and refused to even approach the cheese on its own, loved the dish and I was forced to cede to her some of my own share.
There is no single recipe for avocado cheese toast, so go for it and make your own spin. As far as cheeses are concerned, I recommend savory blues, soft ripened goat cheeses, fresh chevre, farmer's cheese, salty fresh Mexican cheeses, and fresh ricotta.
THE BASIC AVOCADO CHEESE TOAST
- 1/2 avocado
- Slice of bread
- Olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Toast bread
- Spread avocado on bread
- Put cheese on bread and drizzle with olive oil
- Add salt and pepper to taste and you're done!
AVOCADO CHEESE TOAST POWER UPS
Extra toppings that can be pre-made and take no time to make your avo cheese toast pop.
- Cotija cheese, cilantro, pickled purple onions and hot sauce
- Feta cheese, roasted caulflower, toasted pine nuts
- Fresh chevre, arugula