There was a line out the door at Russ & Daughters this Saturday morning, which is generally a good sign for a restaurant, but not when you're in a rush to the airport. Fortunately for hungry travelers like me, Russ & Daughters has a charming bar with no reserved seating allowed (tightly enforced!) so I skipped the line and had my hot plate of latkas in minutes.
The bagel dough itself is flavorful with a suppleness and pleasant yeasty flavor that typifies the "Only in New York" quality you expect from a New York bagel. Caramelized onion and poppy seed dot the center. The bialy is served halved with your choice of double whipped cream cheese (read doubly delicious). I ordered the scallion cream cheese.
Stay for the Fish
Russ & Daughters is world famous for its fish. Smoked herring. Salmon pastrami. Smoked whitefish and caviar. My advice: don't make the mistake I did, order fish. Even as I type this on my bumpy flight back to California, I feel a haunting sense of FOMO.
I can say, however, that thanks to the quick service I made it to the airport with time to spare and I won't be starving on the flight.
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